I am not getting any tank level readings through the TV or the SilverLeaf console. I have checked all the connections for the tanks and did find some corrosion and got that all cleaned up with some electrical cleaner and added a little dielectric grease to the connections. I found the TM-102 module and checked the tank sensor cables for corrosion there, none found but cleaned anyway. I have heard there are lights to indicate the TM-102 is on and communicating. Where are the lights located? I don't see any so now I am concerned the module had died or has no power. How do I test for power to the module?

Submitted by Art on Tue, 2017-08-22 17:08


Hello there A better way to check out the TM102 is by function. Through the Silverleaf (TV or VMS unit): ...does the gen-start work? ...Can you start or stop the water pump? ...open the fill valve (when equipped.) ...see the AC Volts, DC volts? If any of these are true, the TM102 is working well enough. There may be another issue...but we can say its basically working. Your handle indicates you have one of the few Apexs'. These have sloped tanks and are prone to additional issues on grey and black tanks as they are steeply sloped. They're heck on sensors as they're easily clogged and hard to get rinsed...as you could no doubt tell me all about(!) However...the fresh is another story. Sloped but not prone to anything but working. Those little boards you cleaned may play into this. There's one on each tank. Mark their original position and rotate the other two (grey and black) to see if they'll work on the fresh tank. Odds are good that one of them will--but won't work on the other tanks due to clogging or corrosion. New boards can be had, I believe they're less than $20 apiece. We've tried many solutions to getting the Apex tanks to work well--longer than a year--with only some success. To date, the SeeLevel (Garnet) system is about the best. Its just a bugger to get mounted and requires the tanks to be thoroughly scrubbed before install. Those sensors, mounted like electronic fly-paper, read through the holding tank wall capacitivly. While build up wont clog them, they may easily misread the tank level as build up increases up the wall. On the TM-102, there should be a green LED constantly lit and a quickly blinking red LED. Hope this helps Art //

Art, The questions you asked about trouble shooting if the TM102 is working, it is. The gen start is working, water pump functionality is working, fill valve is working and the volts are working. I shut the system down by turning off the batteries for about 10 minutes. After I turned the batteries back on, I noticed that the fresh water said it was at 54%, although it is full. The grey water started showing it was at 30% which I think is close. The black never showed anything. I swapped some of those little boards with no changes. I'm going to do some more testing with them in the morning. I'm also going to make sure the tank level calibrations are correct and do another dry tank reset.

Submitted by Bcruzen on Tue, 2017-08-29 11:04


I noticed last night in the diagnostic screen that the propane sensor has an error as a high voltage and the black tank has an error low voltage. I've driven around some with a half tank in the the grey and black, will dump and flush again tonight and do another dry calibration to see if that helps. Then it looks like it will be time to start swapping known working components from one tank to the other to find the broken link.

Submitted by Art on Wed, 2017-08-30 11:00


You're on the right track--but it may be failing sensors. Glad (!) to hear the rest of the system is otherwise patent. Looks like the Black sensor may be internally shorting out. Sensor Rot; a not-infrequent problem on the black tank. On the other front, the sensor on the LP may be opening up...but maybe not. A loose or scrungy [yes, I made that technical term up just now.] connection can cause this to make-and-break. Here, an intermittent open appears and looks like a 'high' (voltage.) Maybe take close look at the tank and connections there. On the Fresh tank...hmmm...54% when full... 54% tells me its a pressure sensor, not a string of 'touch' sensors or SeeLevel. It may have the original CatCon sensor which uses a gel in the large bore opening of the plastic sensor. That gel gets stiff over time. Sounds like its not able to flex very far at all. Try pulling the (phone) plug from the Fresh and plugging it into the grey (socket.) If that other tank now reads ~54% then its the sensor. If it reads full then the fix may be a dry-tank calibration. My best guesses... cheers Art //

Art, I think I need to get a new sensor. None of may tanks seem to be working properly, so I don't have at least one good set of sensors, converter boards & cables to trouble shoot the system. How do I get a new tank sensor? Mine are of the brass type with the multi color wires coming out of it that then plugs in to the converter board that the phone cord plugs into and goes to the SilverLeaf system. On the propane tank, I will use your suggestion and check the connections. This tank isn't a big issue as it is 39 gallons and only the cook top uses it and I know it was full and have only used the cook top on the last two trips sparingly. Those 39 gallons could very well last several years. Another question, where can I get another exterior temperature sensor? I ran across another Apex and traced the exterior sensor where it was mounted. I found the same place on my coach and it appears it was completely removed from the little piece of pipe in the floor of the storage tanks. It would be nice to have this back to know the exterior temps as I will be running it a few times when I need to be concerned about ice on the roads before I put it away for the winter. Final question, sometimes my rear slides (Bed & Vanity) will work from the control screen and/or from the TV, but sometimes they will not. The pump turns on, but the slides don't move. I have had to go the switch board by the pump which had not failed me yet. Kitchen and Dinette have worked at the control screen and TV every time. Thanks, Blake

Hello Blake We have the brass sensors in stock. It would be prudent to also replace the interface boards as a way to know were not missing anything. The sensors are kinda spendy; $120 each; add a board and its a total of $414 + postage. The temp sensor can be had though often will not be replaced. They were a special option at the time, again, rather pricey at $65 however, they are currently in stock. When part of the HWH works by way of (HMS-TV etc) using the remote or at the VMS400--but part does not, the solution is a new relay. Ultimately, the RV-C commands you're making are sent to relays which then close a solenoid on the motor to drive...retract...whatever. If a switch bypasses the problem, then whats left is that first stage; the relay. I believe the switch is closing a couple contacts though in one action. Which one...? Dunno. However, I have documents for you; here: http://tech.silverleafelectronics.com/node/123. With these you or your staff should be able work through which relay is the culprit. Outside of poring over these too, thats about all I can say with certainty... I hope it helps! cheers Art //